Because the system is composed of two pieces: the cantilever span, and the back span, the placement and magnitude of load on these sections singly or combined will cause different stresses to develop in the member. Often the load is not a single uniform distribution over the length of the member, and other additional loads are present, such as point loads at the end of the member. Design of cantilever beams involves many variables including load, cantilever span and interior or back span. An engineer or architect should design cantilever members. The engineers with the computer programs can run the numbers very quickly.No. You'll only pay a little more to oversize the beams though it is wise to get a professional assessment. All LVLs are glued and timberloc screwed or nailed together. I stripped the walls, so the LVLs end within the walls with new studs/beam pockets carrying the loads down to the foundation. There is a 2x4 plate on top of the LVLs to take up the distance of the plate at the top of the wall. Since the original ceilings are 9' tall I will drop them to the bottom of the LVL-8'. I do have two sets of double 9 1/2" LVLs upstairs above the collar ties carrying some of the roof load down through the end walls and stairwell walls that bisect the house in the 28 foot (east/west) direction so all beams are sized throughout the house with relation to each other, house load, snow load etc. A neighbor, who is a residential engineer, ran the numbers. LVLs die on appropriately sized headers where needed above windows. I jacked the floor above when putting in the LVLs and removed most of the sag from 100 years of no support. All LVLs supported in beam pockets and columns down thru walls. Where the second floor joists lap I removed an old twisted timber (added in 1950s to replace a wall) and replaced it with a double 9 1/2" LVL. I've added 12' long double 9 1/2" LVLs 5 feet in from each side wall directly under the kneewalls/joists that carry some of the roof load above. The upstairs joists are 14' and 10' long above this room (a little longer because they lap). All joists and rafters run east west and all LVLs perpendicular (north south). The front room is 12 x24, joists running in the 24' direction (east west), the gable end wall is the 24' length (north). I am supporting my 1 1/2 story 1906 house with a scaffold of LVLs and columns from the ground up to the 2x4 rafters. I just want to be able to be somewhat informed before I talk with him. I know ultimately it will come down to the building inspector's OK. Is a double 2 x 10 enough to hold up my house and meet code? Is a single (or double) LVL that is 7 1/4 tall enough? I just want a simple beam, supported by 4 x 4s underneath either end. I hear anecdotally that a 2 x 8, doubled up, is sufficient for an 8ft span and a 2 x 10, doubled up, is sufficient for up to 10 feet.Ĭan anyone point me to a table or a calculator or an equation where I can determine what size header I would need using traditional methods, and what I can use if I go with an LVL or some engineered solution? The things I find online are very confusing about live load and dead load and PSF vs PLF and deflection criteria and bearing resistance, etc. This is on the first floor of a 2 story house, I assume it is a load bearing wall because there is another wall directly above. The new opening we want is 9 feet 3 inches. We are opening up a wall to get more "open concept" between two rooms.
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